Griddle Smash Burgers

Method

1. Divide the cold beef into 8 loose 3-ounce balls. Cup each one just enough to hold together — do not roll or compress them. Compacted meat cannot spread thin under the press, and it steams instead of searing. Chill until the pan is ready.
2. Butter the cut sides of the buns and toast them face down in a dry skillet over medium for 60 to 90 seconds, until evenly golden. Set aside; the butter layer waterproofs the bun against burger juice.
3. Heat a cast-iron griddle or heavy skillet over high for a full 6 minutes. It is ready when a bead of water vaporizes on contact with a sharp hiss. A merely hot pan gives you grey meat and no crust.
4. Place two beef balls on the dry griddle with at least 4 inches between them. Lay a square of parchment on one and press down hard with a stiff spatula or burger press for a full 10 seconds, driving it to about 1/4 inch thick and 5 inches wide. Peel the parchment off.
5. Season the tops with salt and pepper. Cook undisturbed 90 seconds to 2 minutes — you are waiting for the edges to go dark brown and lacy and for juices to bead on the raw top.
6. Scrape under the patty with the sharpest-edged spatula you own, getting all the way under the browned crust so it comes up with the meat rather than staying on the griddle. That crust is the whole point. Flip.
7. Lay a slice of cheese on each patty and cook just 30 seconds more. The second side needs almost nothing; these patties are too thin to cook to any temperature but done.
8. Stack two patties per bun so the cheese welds them together, then top with shaved onion and pickles. Spread burger sauce on the top bun, close, and serve immediately — smash burgers have a two-minute window before the crust softens.